Friday, June 25, 2010

Over the Connor Pass through Kerry into Cork

The Connor Pass cuts over the Dingle Peninsula, connecting Dingle to Castlegregory, and is the highest mountain pass in Ireland. Once you pass the viewing pullovers at the crest of the pass, the road narrows significantly and winds down toward sea level through very dramatic scenery, uninhabited mountains haloed in mist and valleys dotted with black lakes. One expects wild Irish clansmen to ride up on horseback, but in actuality, there's only a car waiting in a bit of shoulder hugging the mountain while you take your turn to take the pass. Once off Connor Pass, we set Fiona (GPS) to Killarney National Park.

Each national park we've visited has been spectacular, and Killarney National Park is no exception. This park is right on the edge of Killarney itself, and at its core is the Muckross Estate, a 19th century mansion and its grounds. However, the park includes much more than this restored mansion and the Muckross Abbey. There is Ross Castle, which we didn't see, and more than 10,000 hectares that contain wild deer, ancient Oakwoods (the tree specimens on the grounds of Muckross Estate were stunning), glacial lakes or loughs, three of them that are connected, and a waterfall. We only had a short time to spend here before driving on, so we took a walk on the hiking path alongside Muckross lake as far as the Estate for a cup of coffee in the visitor center (every visitor center we've been in has been inviting, informative, and well designed) and then over to the Abbey before turning back along the drive the jaunting cars (horse drawn buggies) frequent on their round the lake tours of the park. There were dozens of jaunting car cabbies hawking their trade, desperate to drum up business, but we preferred to walk, stretching our legs from the car ride.

We arrived in Kinsale late afternoon. Kinsale is a harbor town of tiny winding streets, colorful shops, many pubs, and a marina of masts and motors, large and small, grand and humble. After a quick wander in and out of many of the artsy shops, I took a walk out toward Scilly and Charles Fort to see what I could see, mainly where this tucked in little harbor town actually meets the sea. I'm glad I took that walk so I could get a glimpse of the fort ruins out along the cove and have a chance to see some of the views of the harbor that are limited within town. I heard tell that Kinsale is the oldest historic town in Ireland, but whether or not this is true, it does seem to have determined itself to be the mecca of gourmet dining. Judging by the literature in our B&B and the lines out the doors of many of the higher end restaurants, there is some truth to this notion. We had a lovely pub meal of fresh fish while watching Spain and Chile play the World Cup. No need to stay out for music tonight! Our B&B is very centrally located right amongst the many shops and pubs and it is Friday night. We've heard the music as if we were perched right on the pub stool! We're in quite a busy hot spot for our next to last night in Ireland! Tomorrow, we head back to Dublin.



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