Our booking at a pub promising live music in Culdaff, County Donegal, turned out to be a disappointment when we found out the headlined musician had left early for America! Then, in the morning, we were informed that if we didn't want to get stuck on the Inishowen Peninsula we should make tracks early because the roads would be closing for a big car rally. Hence, we didn't quite make it to the northernmost tip of Ireland as we had planned. So, we began our drive to our next destination, Ardara, the tweed center of Donegal, but along the way we detoured to go to Glenveagh National Park, a gorgeous protected area of mountains and loughs covering 16,500 km.
Our drive took us on small narrow country roads past grazing sheep and footed bog blankets—peat that has been dug up (footed) by peat cutters to dry before being sacked and carted off to market. Often we found ourselves behind one of these trucks loaded high past the sides of the truck bed with peat bags and wondered what keeps the peat from tumbling off on the rough roads and hairpin turns. Sheer weight, apparently, keeps the delicate balance of the heap, and the trucks rattle on.
When we arrived at the national park, we decided to take the scenic 4km walk along Lough Beagh from the visitor center to Glenveagh Castle. We skipped the castle tour and instead repeatedly drew deep breaths of amazement as we walked through the extensive castle gardens. Our favorite was the walled garden—a magical display of flowers and vegetables of every hue, height, and texture arranged brilliantly in quadrants within the walls. At the end of our visit, I felt as if I were drunk on some fantastic elixir of rosewater, peonies, lupines and poppies.
When we arrived in Ardara, we put our hands to all manner of sweaters (jumpers), vests, scarves, jackets, socks, and gloves. We talked with lovely shop keeps and the mistress of the Heritage Centre. The people of Ireland love to tell stories!
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